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  • Writer's pictureCharles Spungin

The Dead Centre of the Trek

So today we passed the half way stage of our trek - at least in terms of distance.


We started the day visiting an amazing organisation in Tiberias that JCD has supported over the years. Through various grants that the charity has received they have been able to renovate a playground and provide toys and games for children around the North of Israel who suffer from hearing loss or impairment. They run a kindergarten and a nursery but also offer diagnosis and assistance in the treatment of hearing loss. We saw a fantastic group of kids who were there today, happy children enjoying the chance to interact with volunteers who understood the challenge they faced and helped them to prepare for mainstream education and assistance with their speech.


We were delighted to see a JCD plaque commemorating the grant we had given some years ago. We were also incredibly lucky to see workmen putting together colourful fences and installing new games and toys that came from a grant we had given them in November 2021.


From there, we made our way to the edge of Mount Meron where we had finished last night. We began our trek in slightly cooler conditions but it was actually better than walking in the searing heat. The downhill clambering was still a challenge but definitely not as tough as yesterday. Or perhaps we’re just getting better at this trekking lark?!


We stopped at a 2000 year old burial site and along to a 2000 year old synagogue. They were both in ruins and we were guessing as to what the ante rooms might have been used for or how it came to be destroyed but above all it was amazing to know we were still able to appreciate a building from thousands of years ago. Will the same be possible of any of our modern synagogues?


We then carried on down the mountain, along the river bed for another four hours. I could go on about the amazing views, how the clouds came down across the mountain tops and how it cleared to reveal the cities and villages below. I could talk about the variety of trees and the dense woodland we walked amongst. I could. But I’d be making it up though I’m sure it was incredible. Why? Well I spent most of the 4 hours  looking down at my own feet or the feet of the person in front of me or the roots crossing our pathway or the rocks wobbling beneath my shoes. It was only when we had the chance to stop that I could look up without the fear of tripping, slipping or sliding.


We stopped for a delicious lunch - home made salads and Druze dishes. Someone did tell me what they were and what was in them but I honestly can’t remember. Suffice to say delicious. And watermelon - sweet, not too many pips, crunchy not soggy. As watermelon should be. And I ate it and thought of my mother who loves watermelon.


After lunch we then ascended (see that word is back) the mountain again to visit the grace of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai. Rabbi Shimon lived in the 2nd century and was the first to teach the mystical meanings behind the Torah (Old Testament).

Hi grave is surrounded by many different rooms for men and women to pray in (separately of course).


To say this was a different side of the Israel we had experienced so far is a decent understatement I think. For many of our group it was an entirely different - even foreign - world. And it is. But it was interesting to see and here’s hoping the next few weeks will not see a repeat of the tragedy from last year. The grace should see over 200,000 visitors in the next few weeks to commemorate the anniversary of the Rabbis death but last year too many people led to tragedy.


On our descent (preferring that direction) we also came across a more modest grace for Rabbi Tarfun. I’d heard of this Rabbi only recently have heard his wise words across the table on the first night of Passover. And I would have walked straight past his grace if it weren’t for a couple of orthodox boys praying at the graveside.


So a day full of deaths and burials. But not at all depressing. Thoroughly interesting and the sense of achievement stays as we continue to complete 20,000* steps each day.


*I’m saying 20,000 as that seems to be the more accurate reading. My watch says 18,000. But if I’ve done 20,000 then I might go for the pita bread tonight at dinner!!

Tomorrow is time to finish the mission. I understand a challenging morning with vertical obstacles. But we are all helping each other and I’m sure we’ll all end up in the Sea of Galilee by the end of the day.


Tonight is Yom Haatmaut - Israeli Independence Day. If we were Israeli it would be BBQ and fireworks. We’re not but I’m intrigued to find out what our evening will entail.



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